This past weekend was another cultural experience as we embarked on some tours to give us more insight into South African history.
Saturday we went to Robben Island, which is home to the prison that is famous for detaining Nelson Mandela for 18 of his 27 years of imprisonment. We felt a little bit like cattle being herded around the island with the masses of people who were also on the tour, but we learned a lot and found this tour both fascinating and informative.
Robben Island is an island in Table Bay that was once used for criminals thought to be too dangerous to be in close proximity to other humans and also for political activists speaking out against the apartheid government. Originally the criminals and the political prisoners stayed together, but the guards found it necessary to build more prisons and separate them when they learned that the criminals who weren’t serving life sentences were actually leaving the island as activists. It seems they were influenced by the political prisoners that they roomed with, and the guards realized that they were releasing more activists than they were arresting.
While on the island, the prisoners were forced to do hard labor such as working in lime quarries, which they now know may not have served any real purpose other than to keep the prisoners busy. While the physical consequences of such work were damaging, the psychological destruction was even worse. This was an institution that perpetuated segregation and racism. With the election of Nelson Mandela in 1991, Robben Island closed as a prison forever. It now serves as a reminder of the horror of the past and as a tribute to those who gave their lives for the right to freedom.
Our guide was a former political prisoner himself; he arrived to the prison at the young age of 18 and now at just 43 years of age he lives to tell of his experience on the island. I can’t imagine the psychological damage of having to return daily to the same place that you were once held captive. Perhaps it is liberating, but I still think it would be challenging and I revere this man for the work that he does. It was distressing to learn of the ways of the past, but I can understand why these tours are necessary so everybody may learn of these mistakes and avoid them in the future.
Sunday morning we went to the township of Langa to attend a church service and visit some of the homes in the township. One of the homes we visited accommodated 12 families with one shared kitchen area and 4 bedrooms. There are 3 families per bedroom, and each family is entitled to 1 of the 3 beds inside the bedroom. If there are children in the family, they are often left sleeping in the shared kitchen space on the floor, since more than 2 people in a twin-sized bed would be a bit crowded. Privacy isn’t an option here, but with a rent of $3.00 per month, this is what they can afford and nobody complains. There is a strong sense of community here, and even many of the individuals who can afford to leave choose not to; they are all in this battle together.
After touring the home, we walked through the township to the church service. On our walk, everybody was friendly and understood our purpose, smiling and waving to us as we passed. At one point a little boy walked straight up to me, grabbing my hand and holding it as I listened to the guide. He was soon joined by two other little boys who wrapped their arms around me, touching the skin on my arms. My pale skin and blond hair seemed to be an anomaly and I think they seemed to be intrigued by the differences in our appearance.
After seeing the conditions that some of these individuals are forced to live in, it was particularly moving to attend the church service where we saw them dressed up in their best, with the men wearing suits and the women wearing dresses. This is a very charismatic church, and Sunday morning is a time for these individuals to sing, dance, cry, praise and rejoice. The energy in this church is contagious and we couldn’t help but dance as we sang along in worship. We all felt very grateful that they welcomed us with open arms and open hearts.
Throughout the entire weekend it was reiterated that these tours are not run so that everybody can remain stuck in the past by dwelling on it and holding grudges. Their motto is to forgive, but not forget. It is evident that the goal of this country is to focus on the future by learning from the mistakes of the past. South Africa has made a lot of progress, but it is very apparent that this is still a divided nation. Unfortunately, rather than fight for equality, it is easier for many to turn their cheek and pretend as if this segregation is non-existent. South Africa has made a tremendous amount of progress, but this country is in need of some changes and there is still a long way to go. I am forever encouraged and inspired by all of the courageous individuals we’ve met who seem to be up for the challenge.
Amy and I outside of the prison
One of the communal cells which would sleep up to 60 prisoners
Our guide, a former political prisoner
Nelson Mandela's cell
Outside the prison
One of the courtyards where the prisoners were forced to work
The entrance to Robben Island
A view of Cape Town from the ferry leaving Robben Island
The shared kitchen area in one of the homes in Langa
3 families share this bedroom
A church group in Langa
A little boy in the township
The little boys in the township who seemed to take a liking to me
The church service
Laura and I on the waterfront after church
Langa
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